National Drink of Chile

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What’s the national drink of Chile?

The Terremoto is the real national drink of Chile, while the Pisco Sour is the officially recognized drink.


what about pisco?

 

Its ability to evoke versions of Chileanity opposed to hegemonic suggest that it does not need any protection or official recognition to continue in the dispute for being the national drink
— "Pipeño y Terremoto como bebidas nacionales" talking about the Terremoto

 

Pisco Sour in Easter Island, Chile (Image Source)


Pisco: Chilean or Peruvian?

Chile and Perú both protect the name ‘Pisco’ through self-created rules and regulations for the appellation of origin (AO). Chile created its first executive order for AO in 1931, while Peru did the same in 1991.

Also, both countries are recognized as owners of geographical indication (GI) with the World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO). Peruvian Pisco and Chilean Pisco are classified slightly differently with the WIPO, yet both Piscos have equal protection under the Lisbon Agreement for the protection of appellations of origin.

Map of Colonial South America with modern-day Pisco, Peru and Pisco Elqui, Chile.

Map of Colonial South America with modern-day Pisco, Peru and Pisco Elqui, Chile.

 

 

Spanish Colonization & Pisco

The origin of Pisco coincided with Spanish colonization, as both of these present-day locations belonged to the same imperial provincial administrative district of the Viceroyalty of Peru


The Spanish brought the grapes over from Europe for food and wine consumption. The Spanish Empire prohibited wine exports that competed with Spain’s domestic wine industry. This resulted in grapes being distilled and turned into grape brandy, and over time, this took on the name ‘Pisco.'


In 1936, Chile renamed the city of La Union to Pisco Elqui to reinforce the AO of Pisco. Peruvian brandy took the name Pisco from the small port that Pisco was shipped to. However, “the name did not ref

PERUVIAN & CHILEAN PISCO - What’s the difference?

A million rays of sunshine in a single drop
— Chilean Poet Pablo Neruda describing Pisco

Peruvian Pisco is a pure distillate of a young wine made from 8 approved grape varietals. No additives are allowed, including water, which means it has to be bottled at the proof at which it comes off the still. No aging is allowed except for a 3 month (minimum) resting period in nonreactive vessels made of copper, glass, stainless steel, or clay.

Chilean Pisco ferments their grape juice to wine before the distillation process using column or copper pot stills and can be distilled multiple times then water-downed to proof after. Chilean Pisco can also be aged in wooden barrels like brandy or Cognac. According to regulations, there are 13 approved varietals of grape with the majority belonging to the Muscat group.

Which one is better? That depends on if you're asking a Chilean or Peruvian. For an unbiased drinker, it’s a matter of taste. Chilean Pisco is less regulated, which allows the distiller to create a truly unique and artisanal Chilean Pisco. Peruvian Pisco is rigidly regulated and controlled, ensuring an always great drink. However, if you’re buying Pisco to make piscola (equal parts coke and pisco) than it doesn’t really matter what Pisco is being used. As for me, it’s not even close, I’ll take the Peruvian.


TERREMOTO - The real national drink of chile

So what is the Terremoto?

  • Terremoto, which means earthquake in Spanish, is an alcoholic drink that combines pipeño wine, pineapple ice-cream, pisco, Fernet Branca or grenadine. The first round of Terremoto’s is served in a 1L glass called the cataclismo and is followed up by the second round poured in a 500ml glass called the aftershock or replica.

The preparation of the cocktail is simple and varies from place to place. A nice rounded scoop of pineapple ice-cream is heaped into a glass then pipeño is poured close to the rim with a generous dollop of grenadine or Fernet on top. The pipeño and pineapple ice-cream are the only two ingredients that remain the same from place to place, with numerous variations and additions such as Rum, Cognac, and Vodka. One version, which is called Tsunami or Maremoto is made by replacing the pipeño wine with a mixture of beer, wine, pisco, and ice.

This drink is basically liquid alcoholic cotton candy. Pisco can be substituted in-place of the grenadine syrup to reduce the sweetness. Want to try a Terremoto? Join us for a mountain biking vacation in the northern Patagonia of Chile and experience the Terremoto for yourself!

Interesting fact: There is an alcohol-free version called the Terremotín, which is a mixture of juice and pineapple ice cream. Terremotín means little earthquake in Spanish.

what is the origin story of the terremoto?

No one knows the real story behind this cocktail, many bars claim authorship, such as El Hoyo, La Piojera and El Rincón de los canallas in the capital city of Santiago.

The legend says that some German reporters were in Santiago researching material for a story about the devastation caused by the Mach 1985 earthquake. The reporters asked for a refreshing drink to take the edge off the heat, so the waiter added some pineapple ice-cream to a glass of pipeño. Depending on who’s telling the tale, the Germans supposedly said: “This truly is an earthquake." In other versions, after the Germans stumbled out of the bar from alcohol-induced weak-knees the bartender said, “Esto sí Que es un Terremoto.” Thus the name of the beverage became an earthquake or Terremoto in Spanish.

terremoto is consumed primarily around independence day celebrations

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On September 18th, 1810 Chile decided to break-free from Spanish rule and after nearly 8 years of war with Spain on February 12, 1818, the Republic of Chile was officially declared an independent nation.

Every September 18th or ‘dieciocho’ Chile celebrates its Independence Day, which is known as ‘Fiestas Patrias.' Most of the celebrations occur in fondas or ramadas, which are basically improvised arenas, similar to fairgrounds in the United States. Here, traditional music, dance, food, bbq, games, parades, traditional drinks (chicha), and the terremoto are all intertwined in a celebration of national pride.

The Terremoto is synonymous with dieciocho, and in many parts of the country is available only during this week-long national celebration. Ask Chileans what is the drink that represents Chile and the majority will say terremoto.

According to a 2016 study, 70% of respondents recognized the Terremoto as the alcoholic beverage that represents “chilenidad” or Chileanness. 

primary ingredient’s & their significance

A 2017 article titled Pipeño and Terremoto like national drinks: reflexions about heritage and national representation from the University of Santiago in Chile made numerous observations in this 18-page paper, and I will summarize the key points.

  • Pipeño - Until recently this wine was considered marginal, and was “propio de los campesinos pobres,” or “typical of poor farmers.” The wine had no interest from the leading groups of the country because it was “consideraba impuro” or “considered impure.” The authors say “Pipeño transfers to the Terremoto the link with the town and the party, as well as an identification with impurity and rusticity.”

  • Pineapple ice-cream - Does the second key ingredient in ‘the drink of the people’ have to do with flavor or price? Pineapple ice-cream is “suele ser del tipo más barato que se encuentra en el comercio” or “is usually the cheapest type found in commerce.”


The Terremoto is a drink that generates identification and mobilizes emotions, which is “explicitly associated with the nation” and “conveys senses of belonging and authenticity”
— "Pipeño y Terremoto como bebidas nacionales"

Uniform drink in insanely long country

Chile stretches almost 2700 miles from north to south. The North American equivalent of latitude would be from near Acapulco, Mexico to Kodiak, Alaska. This distance is staggering and creates distinct regions within the country. The Terremoto is a drink where “location is not subject to climate, geography, or the cultural difference that the national administrative political division can convey, nor is it a drink of a specific locality or town.”1

The ‘earthquake’ drink also combines the rural element of Pipeño wine and the industrial component through the use of pineapple ice-cream. This merging of the rural and industrial creates a drink that is relatable regardless of place.

History of the Pisco sour

This story of origin is just as foggy as the color of the drink that both Peru and Chile claim as their official national drink.

The most well-known tale involves American entrepreneur Victor Vaughen Morris. The legend goes that Victor Morris moved to Peru for business ventures in the early 1900s'. A few years later Victor opened Morris Bar and created an alternative to the Whisky Sour. In the 1920s', Mario Bruiget, a bartender at Morris Bar added bitters and egg white, thus a new favorite libation of the nation….the Pisco Sour.


Peruvian Pisco Sour Recipe:
2 Parts Peruvian Pisco
1 part fresh lime juice
1 shot of egg white
1 part sugar
Bitters
Ice
— Brandy: A Global History- by: Becky Sue Epstein


Chilean Pisco Sour Recipe:
3 parts Chilean Pisco
1 part lemon juice
1-2 parts sugar
Ice
— Chilean Bartenders

However, a Peruvian cookbook from 1903, Nuevo Manual de Cocina a la Criolla, or New Creole Cooking Manual lists a recipe for a drink simply titled, ‘Cocktail.’ The translation of the drink says “an egg white, a glass of Pisco, a teaspoon of fine sugar, and a few drops of lime as desired, this will open your appetite.” It sounds like a Pisco Sour minus the bitters, but 20+ years before Victor Morris's cocktail. 

In 1862 the Bartenders Guide: How To Mix Drinks was published with numerous recipes calling for Angostura bitters, including a recipe for an Old Fashioned Holland Gin Cocktail. Somewhere between 1903 and 1924 the drink called ‘Cocktail’ got a few shakes of bitters and transformed into the national pride of at least one South American county. What is the exact date and place? I don’t know, nor anyone else.

puruvian pisco sour vs chilean pisco sour


Peruvian-style Pisco Sour made with Pisco from Chile, with 6 times the amount of bitters.

Peruvian-style Pisco Sour made with Pisco from Chile, with 6 times the amount of bitters.


After looking at both recipes you probably noticed that the Peruvian Pisco Sour is the familiar one. The Chilean version lacks the egg white and the bitters, both crucial ingredients of this classic libation.


conclusion

In 2020 the Terremoto is more Chilean and representative of the people than the Pisco Sour. Pisco harkens back to a time of imperialism, while the Pisco Sour conjures up memories of a ‘bitter’ neighborly dispute. As 2019 closed out with protests fueled by social class distinctions and economic inequality, no drink embodies the Chilean spirt quite like the humble, sweet, non-pretentious and 100 percent pure Chilean drink.... el terremoto 


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Jesse (Director of Pedal Chile) has a Master of Science in Health and Human Performance and lives in Patagonia. Jesse enjoys the Terremoto and the Chilean beers of Patagonia, and is an avid reader and MTBer.


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References:

  1. Aguilera B., Isabel; Alvear M., Alejandra Pipeño y Terremoto como bebidas nacionales: una reflexión en torno a la patrimonialización y representación de la nación Revista Iberoamericana de Viticultura, Agroindustria y Ruralidad, vol. 4, núm. 12, septiembre-, 2017, pp. 5-21 Universidad de Santiago de Chile Santiago de Chile, Chile link

  2. Lacoste, P., Jiménez, D., Castro, A., Rendón, B., & Soto, N. (2013). A bi-national appellation of origin: Pisco in Chile and Peru. Chilean Journal Of Agricultural Research73(4), 424-429. doi: 10.4067/s0718-58392013000400014

  3. Mitchell, J., & Terry, W. (2011). Contesting Pisco: Chile, Peru, And The Politics Of Trade*. Geographical Review101(4), 518-535. link